Ancient Forts of Jammu.

Jammu is familiary known as the treasure house of ancient monuments. There are many forts having great historical importance. On the north, Jammu engulfed by Pir Panjal range, on the south by Punjab, Chamba towards east and Punjab and Poonch on the west. Jammu is situated on the right bank of river Tawi. Jammu's ancient name was 'Madra Janapada' (Rigvid, Maha Bharat, Raj Trangni) Jamawant (Sri Guru Partap Suraj Granth). Modern historiographer's belief confirms name from Jambu Lochan. Alphabetically we should mention these forts as:
Akhnoor Fort: Akhnoor is situated 28 kms from south-west of Jammu, on the right bank of Chenab river. This fort along some forts of Reasi, were built by the Sikhs to control the province of Kashmir which then formed a part of Punjab empire which stretched from Khybes in west to Aksiachin (now a part of China controlled Kashmir) the east. According to 'Gazetter of Kashmir & Ladakh' "A brick fort is also seen on the east of the town. Its sides are 200 yards in length, walls are 3 feet thick. This fort was built ninety or one hundred years ago by Mian Tej Singh. Troops of the Central Govt. Occupied it but some of the descendants of Tej Singh live in the town…. .. The town is built on a terrace above the river they speak only Punjabi."
The fort is situated near the Jiapota (Tree after which the Jiapota temple is named), where Maharaja Ranjit Singh performed Raj Tilak ceremony to 21 years old Raja Gulab Singh. Jiapota Ghat is revered by the Hindus. Gurdwara Tapo Asthan Sant Baba Sunder Singh of Ali Bag (Mirpur) was constructed by the Jammu Sikh Sangat. This fort is being preserved by the Govt as a Dogra Heritage and is under renovation by Archeological Survey of India. Currently some parts of this fort are used as Revenue Office and a police station.
Bahu Fort: This fort is 5 kms from Jammu city, situated on a hillock on the left bank of river Tawi. It is one of the ancient forts among forts of Jammu. It is assumed that the fort was constructed about 3,000 years ago by Raja Bahu Lochan. The renovation was done during Sikh rule by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820. Dogra rulers did some beautification lateron. Materials used in its construction are of sandstones, stones etc. Inside the fort is a religious temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali, the presiding deity of Jammu. Locally temple is familiar with the name 'Bave Wali Mata'. Earlier the fort was also refurbished by Autar Dev in 1585. The fort is about 1000 feet located at an elevation, opposite the old town of Jammu. The fort has eight octagonal turrets connected with thick walls. The towers have cnclosures to house guards. The main entry is fit to allow passage of elephants into the fort. On the left entry into the fort is a water tank, which is 6.1x61 meters in size and a water depth of 4.6 meters. A pyramidal structure is on the right flank used as ammunition store. An underground chamber is used as a prison. This Chamber has a secret exist to escape from the fort in case of any emergencies. The first floor is lavishly built with arches and decorated with floral designs like a Baradari or a palace.
Bhimgarh or Reasi Fort: Reasi is situated on the bank of river Chenab. Reasi's ancient name was 'Resial'. Reasi is 64 kms from Jammu and 27 kms from Katra. In this region, Bhimgarh, Zorawar Singh Haveli and Salal Forts are present.
Initially, the fort was of clay but lateron refurbished with stone etc. Raja Bhim Dev established Bhimgarh state during 8th century. If remained an independent principality till 1822, when Khalsa Sarkar Lahore consolidated the small states. The fort is on a hillock about 150 meters high. This fort is used by the royal families as a shelter place during the time of war. In this fort, Kanwar Naunihal Singh, grandson of Maharaja Ranjit Singh stayed for a couple of weeks. Since 1989, the fort is in the charge of Department of Archeology, J&K Govt. The fort is got damaged several times due to its age and natural violence. This fort adds glorification to the city of Reasi.
Zorawar Singh Haveli is another fort of Reasi city. During the time of S. Dewan Singh in 1810 A.D, Jammu witnessed a wave of violence. Maharaja Ranjit Singh deproted his generals to curb the rebellion and Gen. Zorawar Singh Rajput was deputed as administrator of this region. Zorawar Singh was lived in fort - Haveli. Salal fort is also in region. These small forts are in poor conditions and unattended.
Dhanidhar Fort: Rajouri is 154 kms from Jammu. The earliest name of Rajouri was Rajapura, which figures in Mahabharat classic. The seventh century Chinese traveller also mentioned its name. (A history of India). In Reasi, there are prominent ancient forts like Dhanidhar, Mangla Devi, Darhal and Sunderbani fort.
Dhanidhar fort is 2 kms from Rajouri. Certainly it is believed that Emperor Jahangir erected this fort some 400 years ago. Dhanidhar signifies in Punjabi as highest elevation of land portion. The Dhanidhar village is still in its close proximity. (Gazetter of Kashmir & Ladakh). In 1819, Maharaja Ranjit Singh during his Kashmir campaign attached this fort and appointed Mirza Reheem Ullah Khan as Raja of Rajouri in place of Raja Agar Khan. Reheem remained governing Rajouri Principality upto 1846 under the Control of Khalsa Darbar Lahore. Later, Raja Gulab Singh appointed Mian Hathu Governor from 1846-1856 A.D. Mian Hathu refurbished Dhanidhar fort with stones, lime and other materials. The fort was completed in 1855 A.D. From this fort whole valley of Rajouri could be viewed. During the Dogra regime, all the revenue collected from the farmers in the shape of grains was dumped in this fort.
Naushera or Mangla Devi Fort: Naushera is 124 kms from Jammu. The fort is situated 18 kms away from Naushera. This fort is very secured and difficult to access due to strong massive fortification. The fort is on the summit of a rocky hill. Ruins of a number of similar fort like structures exist on either side of the rivulet flowing past Naushera. These ancient structures had their own rulers and each one had to depend against this neighbours. During the regims of Raja Ranjit Dev, Mian Rattan Dev had conducted the siege of fort and brought it under his possession. History says that Sardar Sahib of Gujarat and S. Mohan Singh Shaker Chakya also attacked the fort. Now-a-days this fort contains a treasury building a huge damaged tank and a modern temple of Mata Mangla Devi.
Darhal Fort: Located 12 kms from Naushera is a fort of Rajouri dominating the Lam and Darhal valleys. Firmly constructed on a massive rock, with steep sides it is in acessible from all the sides. The fort is 150 yards in length and 20-35 yards in width. This fort was constructed by a general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was a stronghold of this forces till 1886. Lateron, forces of Maharaja Gulab Singh occupied it.
In 1947, the Muslims wanted to occupy this fort but it was quickly occupied by the local Sikhs and Hindus under the leadership of Subedar Ranjit Singh. In October 1947 Pakistan forces launched many attacks to capture the fort but they were firmly repulsed by the staunch resistance under the command of Subedar Ranjit Singh. Lateron, Ranjit Singh achieved martyrdom in one of the skirmishes.
Chingus Fort: The fort is situated on the Mughal road near to Noori-Chamb. According to 'Gazetter of Kashmir and Ladakh', it is the same place where emperior Jahangir died and Noor-Jehan (wife) got his entrails interred. His dead body, less entrails was taken to Lahore without it being disclosed that he was dead." The Mughal entourage while passing from Rajouri to Srinagar halted at convenient places. Enroute are a number of mini forts and inns. The two important places associated with them are Chingus and Noori-Chamb. The fort is in a displapidated condition.
Jasrota Fort: This is fort is also known as Billawar fort. Billawar is 80 kms from Jammu and 25 kms from Kathua. Billawar was earlier known as 'Walapurt' (Rajtaragni). Billawar (Balaur) was founded by Raja Bhopat Pal (1598-1614). Billawar town is situated on the bank of Naaz and Bhinni nallahas. (Encyclopaedia of Tourism Resource in India). The Kingdom of Jasrota was founded by Raja Jasdev of Jammu in 1019 A.D. According to one source, they are Subclan Rajputs, who migrated from Rajasthan at the time of Emperior Aurangzeb.
The fort of Jasrota was erected by the kings of Jasrota. Originally the fort had seven gates but only four gates mark their existence. The fort is stretched along 700 kanals of land. The fort houses different palaces, ponds, ancient temples etc. According to the author of 'The Punjab Hill States'. "Owing to the fertility of the track being so close to the plains, the Kingdom of Jasrota under, its native rulers was once a powerful state which equated in importance with Jammu down to the time of its extinction in 1834."
There are a few forts namely Lakhanpur Fort, Ramkot fort, Chanchla Mata Fort, Basoli Fort, Jandi Fort Hiranagar and Mehtab Garh Fort, Lakhanpur. These forts due to frequent raids and ravages, now standing in a diplapidated conditions.
Samab Fort: Samba is 40 kms from Jammu city. These forts according to one source mere erected during 13 - 14th century. Samba town was named after the Sumb and Raja Maldev, representing Sumb deity. This ancient fort was build by Raja of Mandi, Naga Raja Goursen (1679-1684). In 1808-12 Maharaja Ranjit Singh conquered Jasrota and brought Samba under Sikh rule and deputed Raja Suchit Singh as its ruler. The Samba fort was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1822 on the remains of old fort. Some work was carried by Raja Suchit Singh in 1830 A.D. There are three forts in Samba namely Mohargarh Fort, Dhirgarh Fort and Bebnergarh Fort. This fort is seven kms away on Dhar road from National Highway. These forts are on a plateau covered by lushgreen fields, fourth fort namely Malkot is in ruins. In these forts, there was a Govt. school functioning, where reputed Gulzari Lal Nanda and S. L. Sehgal continued their studies. The gates of Mohargarh fort are still intact aganist the earlier raids. Red sand, stones etc are utilized in its construction. The walls of these forts are two kms in length and 2-4 metres in breadth. Now-a-days noticeable number of families (about 140)of Gujjars, Rajputs, Thakurs etc reside in them. The face architect of these forts are an amalgam of Hindu-Muslim-Sikhs architecture. A large water reservoir is the main source of water for the residing families. The Samba fort is declared an ancient monument under the Ancient Monument Preservation Act 1920. The Govt undertook conservation and restoration work in March, 2010.
Inspite of above mentioned forts, there are many more forts like Krimchi fort, Jagnoo fort, Badhigarh fort Bajlata (Udhampur), Poonch fort etc. These forts are in dilapidated condition but sincere efforts should be made at the earliest for the preservation.
These forts are assets of glorification and precious heritage of our state. These living monuments are the grand examples of the legacy of the art and must be preserved for the coming generations to peep into their rich past and glorious heritage.

Famous Dogras

* Girdhari Lal Dogra: former Minister and senior Congress leader * Raja Ranjit Dev, Dogra ruler * Maharaja Gulab Singh, general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and later Maharaja of the Dogra Kingdom of Jammu and Kashmir * General Zorawar Singh, legendary general of Maharaja Gulab Singh * Maharaja Hari Singh (1895–1961), was the last ruling Maharaja of the princely state / Kingdom of Jammu and Kashmir in India. He was the Father of Dr. Karan Singh * Dr. Karan Singh, son of Maharaja Hari Singh and distinguished diplomat (Congress Leader from J&K, Royal Family and would have been Maharaja / King of Jammu and Kashmir, Dr Karan Singh was born heir apparent to the then ruler of the state of Jammu and Kashmir and served successively as regent, Sardar-i-Riyasat and governor of the state) * Mr. M.L. Dogra, Director, Athletics Federation of India * Mr. P.C.Dogra, IPS, Director General of Police (Retd.), Punjab * Mr. A.S.Dogra, IFS, Principal Chief Conservator of Forests (Retd.), Punjab * Mr. H.S.Dogra, IES, Director General, Central Public Works Department, Govt. of India * Sansar Chand - (1900-1995) The Doyen of art movement in Jammu, who cultivated, promoted three generations of art talent in painting. His works including landscapes, portraits, war paintings, subject art and miniature work adorn many invidual and public galleries world over. The most precious gift he gave to Jammuites was the Dogra Art Gallery presently known as DOGRA ART MUSEUM, that was made possible because of his unflinching love & dedication for Duggar and its people, and tireless work. He is missed and admired by both his students and admirers. * Dr.Waqar Doger * Pandit Shivkumar Sharma, Artist who brought the santoor, a folk instrument, to classical music * Ustad Alla Rakha, master of tabla * Padma Sachdev, Famous dogri writer. * Miyan Dido, dogra warrior born in Nagrota who fought against Maharaja Hari Singh. * Prem Nath Dogra * Balraj Madhok * Arjun "Joga Bonito" Dogra * Baba Chamliyal a.k.a Duleep Singh Manhas, warrior- saint whose samadhi is visited by tens of thousands per year * Rajat Mahajan, a person who has taken an initiative to get the desired recognition to dogri.
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The martial tradition of the Dogras

The Dogras are known for their valour. The Dogra Regiment was among the regiments of the British Indian Army, which made significant contributions in both the world wars on all fronts from the Far East to Europe and North Africa. At Independence, it became an infantry regiment of the Indian Army composed largely but not exclusively of the Dogra people. The Jammu and Kashmir Rifles, another regiment of the Indian Army, consisting of mainly Dogras was formed out of the former army of the Kingdom of Jammu & Kashmir after it was absorbed into the Indian Army.

Marriage among Dogras & Dogra Cuisine

Some dogra still follow type of marriage which is called 'Dohry' (Double) - take a daughter and give them your daughter. 'Gotra' and `Kula' exogamy is maintained. 'Chadar pana', or marrying the brothers widow is also found in Jammu. Child marriage was common too (Girls 10-14 years, and Boys 15-18 years) but Maharaja Hari Singh banned this in 1940 and raised the age of marriage for girls to 16 years and boys to 18 years. In the hilly areas of Udhampur, Kathua and Doda people also take concubines termed as 'Duals'.
Wheat, maize and Bajra are staple food besides Rice, cereals & a tangier preparation made out of either mango or tamarind also popularly known as "maani", the whole dish is called "Dal Puth Maani" and is savoured togeher as a combination. Mitha Madra is a favourite and is cooked from milk, dry fruits and semolina. Preparations of Rajmash (a special variety of Red Kidney Beans), 'auria' a dish of curd fermented by rye; 'ambal' made from 'aam' mango, jaggery and tamarind are favourites, especially during ceremonial cooking. The expert cooks are called 'Siyans', usually Brahmins. Non vegetarian food was limited to Rajputs and Vaish (Mahajans). 'Khatta Meat' - mutton cooked with sour pomegranate seeds or lime juice and flavoured with fumes of a burning charcoal soaked in mustard oil. KUER is one of the famous food of dodras. it is prepared by flour and butter and serve with sugar and curd. mostly it serve to bridgeroom at the time of marriage by the in laws. CHROLIAN is also one of the favourite food of dogras in the rainy season.IT is prepared by flour mix with water with help of a small cup shaped pot [chrolu].CHROLIAN serve with milk,BABBRU/PATHORU are preparerd by flour and fried in mustard oil babbru are served with maani/potato/kheer/curd,KHEER is a dish prepared from milk by adding some rice and dryfruit in it. kheer is one famous food of dogras and serving in almost all the special occasion and festival of dogras. Another popular exotic dish is Guchiyyan (Dried Mushroom - Black Morel), as it grows naturally in forests and cannot be cultivated; it is a priced commodity and makes an excelled dish with Mountain potatoes (Pahadi Aloo). Saffron or Kesar is extensively used to flavour Sweet dishes and for its anti-oxidant benefits.

Religion, Art, literature and music

Religion:

The region of Jammu and Kashmir is most holy and sacred for Hindu people as it has many famous temples.
Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine: This is the most pious and famous of Hindu religious places. Situated atop Shivalik Mountains, it is around 16 km uphill walk through steep mountain peaks. Situated inside a cave is the Sanctum Sanctorum Shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi, incarnation of Mata Parvati; the supreme all powerful Goddess.
Amarnath Cave: Situated at a significant distance from Pahalgam....deep through rocky mountains and treacherous passes lies the Sanctum Sanctorum shrine of Lord Shiva (The Creator, Preserver and Destroyer) of all Living and non-living Objects/things. During the Month of March/April around rakshabanndhan time, one can witness the miraculous Formation of Shiv Linga at Amrnath Temple...on one particular day, a small rivulet/stream of water solidifies into Ice..perfecting into White Shiv Linga.

Raghunath Temple: Situated at Raghnuath Bazaar (Jammu), one can witness master-piece Hindu Temple building architecture. Dedicated to Lord Rama, this temple was constructed by the Local Dogra Kings of Jammu region.

Dogra Pahari Paintings:

The earliest paintings in PAHARI style originated in Basohli. The first mention of Basohli paintings is in the annual report of the Archaeological Survey of India for the year 1918-19 published in 1921. Subsequently, This style spread to the Hill States of Mankot, Nurpur, Kulu, Mandi, Suket, Bilaspur, Nalagarh, Chamba, Guler and Kangra.It was in 1675, when Pahari School came into being. According to Karl Khandalwala, Raja Kripal Pal of Basholi was first to patronize artists regularly. Raja Sansar Chand, Raja Balwant Singh and other Pahari rulers, further nurtured generations of proficient artists in their courts.Immortalised by its artistic eminences and their connoisseur patterns, Basohli today is a metaphor for a vigorous, bold and imaginative artistic style, rich, stylish and unconventional.

Dogri folk literature comprises (a) Prose forms short stories, proverbs and riddles; (b) Verse from classified as under:1. Ballads:- (a) Baran, (b) Kaarkan, (c) Love ballads, (d) Devotional, (e) those of women saints.2. Lyrics:- They are vast and varied and difficult to mention e.g. love lyrics, ceremonial lyrics, dance lyrics etc.Dogri folk songs too range from love to heroism and sacrifice. Ceremonial lyrics give analysis of human reaction to ceremonies. 'Biayian' are sung to celebrate the birth of male child, indicating gender bias. Family lyrics pertain to household members such as mother, father, daughter-in-law, mother-in-law and their relationships.

The Royal House of Jammu and Kashmir



The chronology of the rulers of Jammu dates back to the Ramayana Period. Indeed, some traced our ancestry to the Ikshvaku(Solar) Dynasty of Northern India (The same clan in which Lord Rama was born. He, therefore is the 'kuldevta'(family deity) of the Dogras).A Raghuvanshi descendant, 'Agnigarba' who was living as a recluse, came to Nagarkote (Kangra, Himachal Pradesh), in the Shivalik hills. When the Raja of Kangra came to know about this person's ancestry, he offered him the hand of his daughter and a part of kingdom. The river Ravi was then the boundary of Nagarkote. Agnigarba crossed it and captured some villages in the Kathua area and declared himself as sovereign king. After his death, his son Bayusharva (B.C. 1530-1500) married the princess of Parole (Kathua). The princess was known as Erwan and she died young. The Raja founded a city after her which is still found near Parole, though now a small village and at the 'Samadhi' of the queen, a `Mela' (fair) is held at every `Baisakhi' (13th or 14th of April) every year. Bayusharva extended the boundaries up to the river Ujh. Bayusharva's great grandson, Bahulochan was enthroned after his death. He migrated from Erwan and built his fort on the banks of river Tawi. Bahulochan died in a bloody battle with Chadaras, Raja of Sialkot (Shayalkot) and his younger brother Jambulochan (B.C 1320-1290) ascended the throne. In those days the area beyond Tawi (the present city of Jammu) was used for hunting. Tradition has it that one day Jambulochan came to this area and while he was sitting behind a bush to ambush some bird or animal, he saw a lion (a tiger in some accounts) and a goat drinking water from the same pond. This peaceful coexistence encouraged him to found the city of Jammu, which some say is named after him. One of his descendants, Raja Shaktikaran (B.C 1200-1177) introduced the Dogri Script for the first time. Another of his descendants, Jasdev founded the city of Jasrota on the bank of river Ujh, and another Raja, Karan Dev built a fort on the banks of the river Basantar. In the early centuries of the first millennium the area came under the sway of the Indo-Greeks, with their capital at Sakala (Sialkot).Among the enlightened rulers of Jammu was Raja Ranjit Dev, (1728-1780) who introduced certain social reforms such as a ban on 'Sati' (immolation of the wife on the pyre of the husband) and female infanticide.Later, under Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the state became part of the Sikh Kingdom of the Punjab after it was captured from its Afghan rulers. Ranjit Singh rendered this state to his general, Maharaja Gulab Singh, who belonged to the Jamwal Rajput clan that ruled Jammu. He extended the boundaries of Jammu to western Tibet with the help of General Zorawar Singh, who has been referred to by British Historians as the 'Napoleon of India'. The Sikh Empire rule extended beyond the Jammu Region and the Kashmir Valley to the Tibetan Buddhist Kingdom of Ladakh and the Emirates of Hunza, Gilgit and Nagar. After the Second Anglo-Sikh War in 1846, the Bitish gave Kashmir to Maharaja Gulab Singh as reward for his treachery against the Sikhs.Pratap Singh, (enthroned in 1855) in saw the construction of Banihal Cart Road (B.C. Road) mainly to facilitate telegraph services. The last ruler of J&K was Maharaja Hari Singh, who ascended the throne in 1925. He made primary education compulsory in the State, introduced laws prohibiting child marriage and threw open places of worship for the low castes. His reign saw the accession of Jammu & Kashmir to the newly independent Indian Union in 1947. Although he originally maneuvered to maintain his independence by playing off India and Pakistan against each other, Maharaja Hari Singh, the last king of the Rajput Kingdom of Jammu & Kashmir ceded his kingdom to the Indian Union in 1947, after Pakistan's founder and Governor-General Mohammad Ali Jinnah, frustrated by his failure to merge his kingdom into Pakistan, incited armed Pashtuns from the neighbouring North-West Frontier Province to invade the kingdom in an attempt to seize it. This invasion by Pakistani tribals and the consequent accession to India sparked the First Indo-Pakistan War. .In 1951 Maharaja Hari Singh's rule was terminated by the assembly and his son Yuvraj(Crown Prince) Karan Singh was made 'Sadr-e-Riyasat' ('President of the Province') and Governor of the State in 1964.

'Jammu' and 'Dogra'

The Jammu Region, which is one of the three regions of Jammu and Kashmir state (the other two being the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh), is bounded on the North by the Pir Panjal Range of the middle Himalayas, in the south by Punjab, to the East by Ladakh and close to the West in Pakistan. The lower Himalayan ranges begin suddenly behind the town of Jammu, which is placed on a slope of over 1300 feet above sea level, overlooking and commanding the plain watered by the Chenab, Ravi, Tawi and Ujh rivers. The Jammu region consists of ten districts: Jammu, Kathua, Udhampur, Doda, Poonch, Kishtwar, Reasi,samba, ramban and Rajouri.The city of Jammu is the winter capital of the state(the summer capital being Srinagar, in the Kashmir Valley). The Dogras traditionally inhabited the area between the slopes of Shivalak range of mountains, the sacred lakes of Surinsar and Mannsar. Surinsar is located at 30 km to the west of Jammu. Dogras are believed to be of Rajput origin migrating many centuries ago from Rajputana (now called Rajestan) to the hilly areas of Jammu. They speak the Dogri language and the majority are followers of Hinduism. However, in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, few Dogras embraced Sikhism and Islam. The origins of the name 'Jammu' are shrouded in mystery, as is the history of the people inhabiting the territory, popularly known as 'Duggar', but the towns of the region with their fortresses stand testimony to a distinct cultural and linguistic identity. Some try to trace its origin in the word jambudvipa, a combination of the word `Jambu' and dwipa (island). According to Sir Walter Hamilton (Description of Hindustan, pg. 499), "It is possible that an ocean may at one time have reached the base of these mountains forming high table lands into islands." The famous Chinese traveller Xuanzang describes the valley of Pamir as "the centre of Jambudwipa." Some attribute the name to Jambavantha or 'Jamwant', the 'Riksharaja' or the king of the bears in the army of King Sugriva in the Ramayana, who is said to have meditated in the Peer Kho Cave on the banks of the Tawi River.According to the 'Imperial Gazetteer of India' the origin of the word 'Dogra', as commonly stated by the people themselves, is said to have arisen from the fact that the cradle of the Dogra people lies between the two lakes of Sruinsar and Mansar. 'Dwigart Desh' or the country of two hollows, was corrupted into Duggar and 'Dugra' and then became Dogra. From Jammu stretching to the east along the plains of the Punjab is the Duggar country and all who live in it, whether high born Rajputs or low born menials are known as Dogras, and have certain national characteristics and a common tongue, Dogri, which are differentiated from any of the other people in India. What is more acceptable is the popular belief that Jammu owes its name to Raja Jambulochan, but it remained an insignificant village till the fourteenth century A.D.